Beautiful day in stunning Marina Franca

Tuesday October 19, was absolutely gorgeous.  As I noted in the last blog, there was an electricity interruption from about 9:15 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.  Luckily, the weather was wonderful and we went out to explore the city.

Fixing the electricity in the neighbourhood- a lot of workers and wires

Clothes racks in the 'hood

As we couldn't boil water for our Nanopresso coffee, we headed out to Caffè Tripoli for breakfast.  The cafe celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2011.  The waiter greeted us warmly as we had lunch there on Monday.  As it was still a bit chilly at 10:00 a.m., we sat inside.


Inside cookie section

Alonso with the cappuccinos.  Italians drink cappuccinos for breakfast, but not after lunch.

Old photos

A very nice place for breakfast 

As we left, we noticed Angelini, a bakery across from the Caffè Tripoli, that had been closed yesterday (at least when we were around the cafe).

Outside of the bakery

We bought a package of the home-made Taralli - everyone eats these in Puglia- made from flour, olive oil, salt and white wine.  The origin of the taralli recipe goes back to 1400.  Legend has it that a mother who, having nothing to feed her children, used what was in her panty and made what are now a popular snack food.
Lots of taralli- some plain and others with rosemary, fennel and other flavours

Picasso quote next to the bakery

A few doors away was a small fruit and vegetable store that we noticed for the first time.  We bought a lettuce, some tomatoes, a zucchini and five plums--- all for 3.50 euros.  There was a bit of a lineup by the time we left.  There are still restrictions on the number of people allowed into small retail.

 Neighbourhood fruit and veg store

We decided to follow a number of walking itineraries on the tourist map of the city.  We first went into the Basilica di San Martino.

Basilica 

Beautiful interior

There were a number of ceramic olive oil containers donated in the late 1990s.

Detailed work

The Basilica was very well maintained

We went down a street with coloured banners.

More colours

There are beads in many doorways - very 1950s

Baroque a go-go

Chiesa di Santa Maria Della Purità

 Inside of the Church - austerity of the outside contrasts with the rococo interior  


Looking back at the white buildings on a perfect day

Inscription said that the house dated back to 1799

Alonso walking past the bike on the wall

We had been noticing ceramics in the shape of a flower on the balconies of many houses.  We found out that they are called pumi (singular pumo).  A pumo is a ceramic flower bud surrounded by acanthus leaves.  The word pumo comes from the Latin pomum (fruit).  They are symbols of fertility and prosperity and good luck.  We also found out that historically they are linked to the town of Grottaglie in Puglia, a hub of artistic ceramics.   Another wonderful unique item from this region.

A pumo on a balcony

Flowers everywhere


We stopped at the Chiesa di San Vito, one of the oldest religious buildings in Martina Franca.  It was built in the last part of the 13th century and into the early part of the14th century.  Very austere and imposing.

Chiesa di San Vito

More baroque

Via Machiavelli--- the streets have great signs that tell you whom they are named after and when that person lived.

One of the old city towers at the edge of the Centro Storico

 1649 dated small church

The inside

Very ancient

We walked back towards Piazza XX Settembre.  The Teatro Verdi is now a cinema, playing Boss Baby!

Teatro Verdi- now a cinema

Around the corner was the Gran Caffè.  It looked like a bike tour had stopped for a coffee.  We sat on a bench in the Piazza enjoying the scene and then after the Caffè had mostly cleared, we decided to go for a drink.

Outside the Gran Caffè


Inside-- the gelato stand.  The bar was very nice and there was an upstairs section as well.


It was quite warm by 3:00 p.m. (about 20C) and just lovely sitting in the sun. 

A very nice Aperol Spritz

We then made our way back to the apartment to check that the electricity had gone back on.  It had, so I posted yesterday's blog and we had a bit of a rest.  We headed out for a short walk once the stores reopened.  We also wanted to get a better map with the railway station on it from the Tourist Office.

Another photo of the Basilica-- the light is amazing this time of year

The characters at the back of the top of the gate into Piazza XX Settembre


The Tourist Office didn't have any copies of the map with the Railway Station on it, however, the very nice woman working there said she would call over to someone in the Palazzo Ducale and that we could get a map there.

We walked around the corner, went up to the first floor (2nd in Canada) and found the woman who had a map ready for us.  We hadn't realised that some of the Palazzo is open to the public.  We were able to wander through a number of rooms with incredible frescoes.

First was a room with a number of the Caracciolo family pictures. It was called the Duke's room and featured paintings of a number of Dukes that lived during the 14-17th centuries.  



We then looked down a long hallway that led to a number of rooms with fabulous frescos.

Entrance to the frescoed rooms

The frescos were painted by Domenico Carella, who worked during the first years of the dukedom of Francesco III (1771-94).  There are three frescoed rooms: the room of the Arcadia, the room of the Myth and the room of the Bible.   

The singing school- in the Arcadia room




Very elaborate ceiling paintings and Murano chandeliers

We headed back to the apartment for an Alonso chicken dinner with zucchini, tomatoes, green salad, wine and some cantuccis (almond biscuits) for dessert.  On Wednesday, we are going on a day trip to Alberobello, home of the Trulli.  It is only a 20 minute train ride from Martina Franca.  Another adventure awaits.



Comments

  1. What a beautiful walking town, so many lovely locations to visit! I love Taralli, especially the fennel ones and in Toronto buy them at Grande Cheese and Eataly. Enjoy the visit to Alberobello, the Truilli houses and story behind them are amazing! Myrna

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