Friday October 29 was another lovely day with a high of 19C. We were very pleased that when we checked our phones at about 8:00 a.m., our Covid test results were there and we were both negative. We then figured out how to fill in the forms on the ArriveCAN app.
For our last full day of our adventure, we decided to go on an afternoon trip to Polignano a Mare. We had originally planned to go from Monopoli but ran out of time, plus that was the only time when we had a few days of cooler weather. Polignano is only about a 40 minute train ride from Bari. We left at 11:47 a.m. and arrived at 12:21 p.m.
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| Arriving in Polignano a Mare |
The permanent population of Polignano a Mare is around 18,000. It is perhaps the most photographed place in Puglia. The Old Town is perched atop dramatic limestone cliffs. It is a stunning seaside town. Usually it is full of tourists, but we are finding that October is a wonderful month to be here, especially as tourists are just starting to return. Americans were all over Rome, but we ran into none in Puglia-- mainly German, British and some French tourists in limited numbers.
There were a few maps outside the Train Station and it was very easy to find our way to the Tourist Office to get a paper map.
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| Map outside the train station |
It was only a 10 minute walk to the Old City. We stopped at Caffè Dogali on Via Dogali for an espresso.
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| Nice cafe operating since 1967, on the way to the Old City |
We passed pictures of Domenico Madugno--- the singer-songwriter who wrote Volare!! He was born in Polignano a Mare in 1928 (though he left his hometown at age 9).
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| Archway to the Old City |
The Tourist Office suggested that before we entered the Old City that we walk along the seafront to the famous Cala Port Beach. One walks over the Lama Monachile Bridge which is one of the few remnants of an ancient Roman road.
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| Looking down at the famous beach |
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| On the bridge with the sea behind us-- a bit windy |
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| A view of the houses on the cliffs |
We walked a bit past the bridge to find the statue of Modugno erected in 2009, facing the town with open arms. Unfortunately, they are constructing a new public square in front of the statue, so we could not get close.
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| Volare.... |
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| Picture of what the square will look like |
There was also a wonderful pool just a few hundred metres from the statue. A few folks were at the pool.
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| A beautiful pool |
We then walked down some steps to the beach.
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| Poem by Pablo Neruda on stairs |
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| Another poem |
We walked down a street with an ancient church on it.
A church dating back to 1167
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| Where the old door to the Church had been |
We stopped at a small jewellery store/stuido beside the Church. We were intrigued by the jewellery so went inside. The artist was a lovely woman. She made earrings and necklaces from cactus fibre--- very interesting and also from olive tree wood. Alonso bought a nice pendant made from the wood.
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| Cactus fibre jewellery |
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| Wood jewellery |
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The artist, Alessandra Maselli Campagna and Alonso
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| Outside her studio-- AMaCa- Made of Puglia |
She told us a bit about the poet. She said he was not well and living in poverty. She and some other folks in town are planning a GoFundMe effort to get him some funds. She also showed us where the original door to the church was located (see above).
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| Another poem |
We then took a long walk out to a contemporary art gallery. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that it didn't open until 4:00 p.m. However, it was a pleasant walk partially on the sea front.
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| The houses on the cliffs are wonderful |
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| One of two men we saw fishing |
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| A lone sailboat out on the Adriatic |
We went for a fish lunch at a resto recommended by the artist we had met. We didn't want a lot of food, so shared some calamari and shrimp and grilled vegetables. We were eating late (around 2:45 p.m.), so were the last table to finish.
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| Patio on one side of Pavi- Ristorante Cucina di Mare |
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| On the patio of Pavi |
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| The inside of the restaurant |
We wandered some more and stopped for gelato at Martinucci's location in Polignano a Mare.
We stopped at the Clinic to get a printed copy of our Covid test results. We will need them for our flights. The copy they emailed us is password protected, which would have been difficult to open each time we have to show the documents.
Then back to the apartment. We greeted Dora across the narrow street. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, we had arranged for her to make us an orecchiette and chicory pasta meal and as well buy some of her home-made orecchiette to take home. At about 7:30 p.m. a friend/relative knocked on our door and delivered our food and a bag of orecchiette.
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| Our orecchiette drying outside of Dora's apartment across from ours |
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| Our dinner--- just delicious |
We had a glass of wine, a green salad and some delicious pecorino cheese for dessert. A perfect dinner to end our trip.
A friend of our host will pick us up at 7:30 a.m. to take us to the airport. Our Lufthansa flight leaves Bari at 9:50 a.m. and we fly to Munich, where we have a 4.5 hour layover. We are due back in Toronto at 6:30 p.m. on Saturday.
This has been a wonderful trip. We highly, highly recommend folks travel to Puglia. There are only a few tweaks we would have made to our itinerary, though a few more days might have been nice. Also, if folks are prepared to drive rather than just travel by train/bus, we have some itinerary ideas.
Definitely get in touch if any of you are planning a trip there. It was also nice to start the trip in Rome.
Arrivederci Roma e Puglia!!
Toby, I really enjoyed this day with you. You take marvellous notes. Almost, not quite but almost like being there. Give us a call when you’re back in town and adjusting. Best from Paul and Melanie
ReplyDeleteOh, and Alonso, I want to see this necklace!
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed the trip. Thanks Toby!!
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